Edu-tainment: When I use the education materials to entertain myself.

As a Guest English Teacher, I've often been told that our role in the school runs somewhere along the line between a teacher of our native language and a court jester from the Medieval times-- that is, we are part instructor and part entertainer (shaken, not stirred).

This puts us in the line of business cleverly labeled 'edutainment'... and oh, how I love and despise it equally.

The last time I had a visitor in Korea, it was brought to my attention that there are some strange things about the way children learn English here. I mean, sure-- overall, Korea's programs are pretty effective. But I guess when the consumers of this English-crazy material had lessons on grammar and vocabulary since you were 7, the people producing these learning tools have to start thinking outside the box to keep students focused.

Or perhaps it's another one of those cultural lenses I just don't see through with quite the same perspective. Sometimes, things which are supposedly obvious to Koreans don't register with me.

Either way, it's all edu-tainment to me.

The following series of photos were captured from an English poster in our staff room. There are no captions to go along with these "English 365" photos, so I decided to make some of my own from the more... interesting pictures.

"Hey Bill, you want this fish? It's about to go bad, and it smells like socks, but you look like you're fish-deprived based on that crazy look in your eyes."

"ZOMG I LOVE FISH. THAT'S WHY I ALWAYS CARRY THIS FORK! NOM NOM NOM"

"Look! It's the elusive bald fairy I've been searching for my whole life. It just flew off my shoulder and into the sky! Do you see it??? DO YOU SEE IT?!"

"WTF where did all this grey hair come from?! GET IT OFF GET IT OFF GET IT OFF!!!"

This picture, I assume, is depicting two people talking about their favorite animal (let's hope). But what is the thing on the left? Is it a monkey? A cat? A sad, deformed hamster? 

The guy on the left appears pretty blissfully ignorant to his friend's sad state:

"George... it's... it's so hot... could I have a sip of your water?"
"Oh, you mean this water? You're right, Joe; it's been just sweltering today, but look how jolly I am with this water... it's amazing what some hydration can do for you. Say, you should drink more water, Joe. You don't look so good."

 "낙서" (nak-seo) means "graffiti", which just makes this picture funny by virtue.


Got any clever captions? Please post them in the comments below or send them to playingwithelephants@gmail.com.

Cheers to the weekend!

"You use chopsticks very well."

Going out with Korean co-teachers is unlike any dining experience I've ever had.

I don't just mean that in Korea's professional world, it's perfectly acceptable to knock back a few beers or some Soju with your co-workers and hit up the 노래방 (norae-bahng, or singing room) for a little karaoke into the early hours of the morning. Korea tip: if you are ever at a 노래방 with your Korean friends or co-workers, singing anything by ABBA will send the room into a happy, drunk frenzy.

What I'm about to illustrate is a typical dinner night with my co-teachers:


5:20pm- The time dinner is slated for.

6:15pm- The time we get to the restaurant. I want to stress that this is not because Koreans view time as a relative thing (this is not a "it'll get done whenever" culture); this is simply because most of the Koreans I know are so busy I don't actually have proof that they sleep.

6:16pm- We sit at a table with about 2357809 tiny side dishes (mostly vegetables hidden among spicy sauce; sometimes they are unidentifiable as vegetables; sometimes that's because they're meat). As the youngest at the table, I am culturally supposed to pour the water, but I usually don't get the chance (or, yes; sometimes I forget). Food is ordered and I'm never sure exactly what it will be.

6:18pm- The conversation switches between fast-paced Korean, with lots of gestures, laughter, and what I can only describe as 'Korean sounds' (often crucial to story-telling, I'm sure... I just never know what any of it means). I try to follow along but sometimes feel awkward paying complete attention to a conversation everyone knows I don't understand. This is when I analyze the 2357809 side dishes and pick at the less meat-looking ones with my chopsticks.


6:25pm- The conversation breaks from Korean as a co-teacher turns to me and asks,

"So Laura-- what did you have for breakfast today?"
"I had cereal."
"With milk?"
"Yes; with milk."

Somehow, this is incredibly funny.

6:27pm- The conversation resumes in Korean. I practice with my chopsticks again. Before I came to Korea I thought I was pretty good at chopsticks. Since living in Korea, I've seen things done with chopsticks I never thought imaginable. And I still can't cut cabbage kimchi with 'em. Damn.

6:30pm- The main course arrives. I'm already full from the side dishes. Maybe this wouldn't have happened if I spoke more Korean.

6:46pm- We finish the main course and I think I'm about to burst. I hear my co-teachers order rice and soup. I always forget about that sneaky post-meal-meal.

7:00pm- We finish dinner and my co-teachers notice there's no coffee machine in the restaurant (which is standard for a lot of Korean restaurants). This can only mean one thing:

7:03pm- We get in the car to drive to a coffee shop. At 7 o'clock in the evening. Maybe they don't ever sleep.

7:05pm- We order coffee and the conversational pattern continues between Korean (some of which I can understand and surprise both myself and my co-teachers when I laugh at the appropriate times) and a slow-paced English conversation where I break so many grammatical laws that my friends at home would never believe I teach this language to children.

7:45pm- We head out. Teacher dinners are always fun and interesting for me, but honestly I'm glad when I can be home before 9pm this time. Usually, when foreign teachers go out with staff, it's an all night affair.

For anyone who is ever nervous about dining with their staff-

• Don't be. They know you are out of your element.
• Remember that you are not only a teacher, but the school jester. Let them be entertained by you.
• Try. Try the food. Try chopsticks. Try the alcohol if it is offered to you. Just try.
• Never accept anything from another person with your left hand; use both hands, or if you only have one hand free, make sure it's your right hand. Never offer anything with your left hand, either.
• Be content people-watching if you can't join in on the conversation. Or practice with your chopsticks.

Unless you can already cut kimchi and fish. In that case, I might be asking for your assistance.

Shanghai'd.

And not the slang interpretation.

After a whirlwind adventure, it is with great pleasure that I give you a full briefing on my adventures in Shanghai, China, with tips galore for both the photographer and the traveler. Here are some highlights from my 6-day excursion:

Dumplings galore.

When Westerners think about Chinese food, we think of pork fried rice, sweet and sour chicken, and fortune cookies. If you're reading this because you want to travel to China for any of these dishes, it would be less expensive to go to your local Chinese buffet and grab some all-you-can-eat lunch, because local Chinese food is nothing like that.

With that said, the food in Shanghai was pretty excellent.

 It's easy to eat cheaply in China-- even Shanghai, one of the major cities (it's also easy to eat expensively, but what fun is that when all the traditional food is so inexpensive?).

Some of my favorite cheap eats were in the form of dumplings (called 'mandu' in Korean, but unsure of the name in Chinese). These beauties are hot, steamy, and the size of your fist. Usually stuffed with meat, but sometimes with spinach or veggies with curry sauce. You can find them at local hole-in-the-wall vendor stalls, or in most convenience stores near the cash register. Heaven.

Similarly, Jaozi (jout-za) is very local, cheap, and delicious. Over-sized pot-stickers, these morsels are as cheap as 1 yuan a piece (that's about $0.15 USD!).

Other notable food resources would include the many fresh fruit stands all around the city. If you're in the market for some apples or bananas, hit up one of these stalls for a good deal.

City Central Youth Hostel.

We struck some traveler gold when selecting City Central Youth Hostel. It was clean, organized, and tons of fun! For about $6USD per night, we had access to dorm room suites, clean showers (with hot water), and a host of other amenities that came in the form of cushy couches and free breakfasts. The CCYH also has its own restaurant/bar where the food is affordable (not as cheap as the Jaozi, but what else on earth is?!) and-- most importantly-- delicious. We met tons of fun folks there (mostly Brits; what a lovable crew!) and with only a 20 meter walk to the nearest metro stop, it was easy to explore the city. 5 stars for this rockin' place.

Pedestrians: not the most respected part of city travel.

One of the times I've been most concerned for my life is in a crosswalk in Shanghai. A warning to all ye who dare to cross the street there: look left, look right, and keep looking as you dodge your way in and out of traffic like the way you'd dodge bullets in the Matrix. There is little, if any, respect for human safety on the streets, and with the amount of motorcycles on the road, it's not uncommon to get caught in a swarm of them!

Fortunately, there are a few common heroes out there, enforcing traffic safety laws. Chinese officers in highlighter yellow jackets patrol many a street corner, and according to reliable sources aren't afraid to jump in the way of moving vehicles to keep people like us safe. So practice your "xie xie" (that's shey-shey or 'thank you') when you see one of them saving your butt from the guy on the moto carrying 2 refrigerators behind him.

What do you get when you mix blaring pop music, too many security guards and no dance floor?

I'm not sure, but you can know you're definitely at a Chinese club. What you are sure to get is a security officer scolding you for taking photos, hoards of old men playing dice games, and maybe some dancers impersonating Justin Beiber (if you were to be so lucky). Definitely not the Westerner's scene, but it does make for a cultural experience.

Yes, I was actually scolded for taking this obviously high-resolution picture of people doing NOTHING in this club.

Shanghai is known for its 'all-you-can-drink' nights at clubs around the city, but unless you're going to start and end your night all in one place (or if you like binging yourself into an alcohol-induced coma of stupidity), then you might be better off grabbing some beers at a pub or-- cheaper and easier to find-- a local convenience store. 


Places to see.

Jin'an- This district is large and includes some of the places listed below but the main attraction you should see in this area is the Jin'an Temple (off of metro Line 2). If not for the history its endured, then for the shiny gold lions and roofs.

The French Concession- I didn't know that Shanghai would have anything resembling France in its city limits, but the French Concession is actually quite beautiful. Take a stroll to see the architecture, eat some local food, and enjoy the scenery of tree-lined streets (where you may or may not see people hanging their clothes to dry...). European charm on the outside, pure China on the inside. Mmmm, nougat-ey.

 
People's Square- People's Square is directly between Jin'an and the Bund. For anyone who loves the feeling of big open parks, fountains, or seeing kids flying kites with their adorable grandparents, this place is a must-see. Pack a picnic and take a stroll (or hop on the metro if you're not looking for something quite that idyllic).

The Bund- The Bund is also full of old European charm. Right along the Huangpu River, this area is full of fun shops (albeit the more expensive ones), ferries, and the gorgeous view of the Pearl Tower. Just take metro Line 10 and get off at Nanjin Road East.

Pearl Tower- Seattle has the Space Needle, London has Big Ben, and Shanghai has its Pearl Tower. This is a site worth seeing, of for no other reason than to know that its the trademark of one of the largest cities in the world.  Don't feel pressured to ride up to the observation deck, but if you want to get close to the tower, hop on a ferry for a couple yuan and cross over to the other side.

 The Stupid Tunnel (cleverly named by a friend who said it was 'so stupid, it was actually kind of cool.')- If you really want a different experience, take the tourist tunnel under the river to get to the tower. Just know that you're entering a tourist trap that will leave you feeling like you went through an offshoot of some Willy Wonka ride. Oh, and (of course I would suggest this) bring your camera.

Old Town- The Old Town district, also off Line 10 of the metro, is a great stop if you'd like to see a little of traditional Chinese market culture and the reinvention of Chinese market culture. Old Town has them both. If you're clever, you can find metal trays of bloody fish heads and beautiful rows of red lanterns withing a 30-minute walk of one another. Now that's culture.

Completely subjective: from the eyes of one traveler.

Compared to Korea, China was-

• louder.
• dirtier.
• fatter (and by that I mean average-sized).
• more confident.
• more rude.
• more organized.
• cheaper.
• better at English (both in speech and advertising).
• equally helpful.
• equally strange.
• equally delicious.
• less concerned with being so flippin' cute.
• still in love with Hello Kitty.
• warmer, but not warm.

... but you should really go figure this stuff out for yourself.
Don't take my word for it.

Some travel logistics:


So what about the Internet?

Due to China's ban on many different websites, social networking, video streaming, and other various sites are not readily available in China. In order to access these sites, you will need to get a VPN shield or use a proxy server. Free proxy servers are hit-and-miss because China's government is constantly taking them down (so something that may have been usable at one point could be gone in a matter of hours), but they are available here and there if you really can't live without your Facebook or equivalent. If you are staying in China for a while and want something reliable, it would be in your interest to do some research and find a decently-priced proxy server that will allow you to access the sites you're looking for. 

Dirty fun.

It only takes a Google images search to see that Shanghai has an incredible amount of smog. If you are going to be staying in Shanghai for more than a week or so, you may want to invest in a face mask for those days when air pollution is particularly high.

On a similar note, don't drink the tap water under any circumstances. Bottled water is easy to come by (don't spend any more than 2 yuan for an 8 oz. bottle), but if you're running on a tight budget, you may want to consider getting a pump-operated water filter.


"Would you like a shopping?" and other scams.

Even though Shanghai is a densely-populated city, foreigners stick out like sore thumbs and are thus perfect targets for scammers. In Shanghai, there are lots of different scams. Many times, people will approach you on the street or in markets and tell you they want to show you around (to an art gallery, tea shop, or something else entirely), only to take you to a shop and make you pay tons of money on site.

To make sure you don't fall prey to these scams, the best thing to do is to just say no to all offers like this you see, even if the person seems very kind and genuine.

If you encounter someone who is particularly aggressive, you can simply use the phrase "búyào" (不要), which means "don't want". It's a fairly strong statement and gets the point across.

&

Last-but-not-least-ly:

Complete credits to an amazing travel partner, interpreter, and adventurer, who happens to run a video blog called DisOriented Travel. You should really check it out sometime if you want tips on how to travel cheaply in Asia, want to learn about backpacking, need tech tips, or are just generally in the mood to be entertained by a mild-mannered, humorous guy on an epic adventure abroad. It's worth your time either way.


Happy travels!
Laura and 친구

A Brief Foreigner's Guide to Sexual Health in Korea

By now, dear readers, many of you are familiar with the fact that I am an English teacher in South Korea. However, this is only my day job. By night I am a sexual health vigilante, unafraid of open discussion and fascinated by gender issues and culture.

With that said, anyone who is uncomfortable now should skip this post because I'm about to go into detail about... you know... sex stuff.

For many foreigners, sexual health is something that can be overlooked because

1) it's uncomfortable to talk to your co-teachers about it.
2) there is little information in English about health, let alone sexual health, in Korea.
3) some people don't understand why they should care.

But that doesn't take away from the importance of knowing how, where and who you should talk to if you or someone you know needs to get a tune-up, check-up, or just be prepared.

From my research on the matter, combined with information I've gleaned from the foreigner community and a little first-hand experience, you can put your mind at ease to any of the following questions which may be troubling you or your friends currently.

"How do I get birth control in Korea?"

This is probably one of the most frequently-asked questions among foreigner women when it comes to sexual health. Upon arriving in Korea, my first assumption was that the pill would be difficult to obtain, considering the seemingly conservative stance the Korean culture has on the social issues surrounding sex. However, birth control is, by far, easier to get in Korea than in the States, and at a way lower cost. Mercilon (pronounced mer-shea-loan) is available at any pharmacy (look for the sign 약국 or ask for the nearest yak-gook) for about 7,000 won (about $6.70 USD).

UPDATE: 피임약 (pee-im-yak) is the Korean word for 'contraceptive', which may prove to be super handy if you're looking to purchase the pill (thanks for the extra info, fellow Ulsanites!).

For you visual learners out there (or if you'd rather not say a word and just point to pictures), here's a picture of what you're looking for:

From what I've heard, the side effects are normal in comparison to other hormonal oral contraceptives, but it's not guaranteed to work out that way for everyone.

Inter-uterine devices (IUDs) are also fairly common in Korea, so if you're looking to get one, your local gynecologist should be able to perform the procedure.

"How do I get an STI test in Korea?"

The same way you get an STI (sexually transmitted infection) test in the States. Find a local clinic and go in. If you're looking for STI testing at a subsidized rate (like you would find at a Planned Parenthood in the US), good luck. A full STI screening could cost anywhere from 120,000 to 180,000 won-- completely worth the cost for those who can afford it, but Korea is definitely not handing out tests for free.

For women living in Ulsan, Lee & An in Sam-San Dong (located on 4th floor above the KFC) is an excellent and clean gynecology office that comes highly recommended from the foreigner community (wonderful English; no appointment necessary). You can visit their website here.

"What are Korean condoms like?"

After sitting down with a girlfriend and physically comparing the two kinds (giggle fits and all), the main difference between Korean condoms and non-Korean condoms is circumference (with Korean condoms being the smaller).

"Where can I find non-Korean condoms?"

If you find the Korean-brand condoms to be a disincentive for safe sex, never fear. You can find brand name condoms you’re likely familiar with in department stores such as Home Plus. Although the selection may not be the best, it could be an alternative to using something that doesn’t work for you (and if it’s not the right size, it’s not providing protection).

I haven't found dental dams in Korea yet, nor have I seen latex-free condoms (though I haven't looked too hard). If you're reading this and know where to find 'em, please leave a comment below.

How about 'Plan B' (the 'Morning After' pill)?

Through research among forums it seems that emergency contraception (brand-named "NorLevo") is available at pharmacies but you need to have a prescription. Through the foreigner network I've learned that, fortunately, acquiring a prescription is not too difficult (simply requesting one at a doctor's visit will do the trick), but timing can be an issue, as 'Plan B' is most effective if taken as soon as possible, up to 5 days from the time of intercourse (as time goes by it loses its effectiveness so thte sooner the better). Although emergency contraception is just that-- for emergencies only and not a regular birth control method-- it's always smart to have one package on hand, just in case. And in Korea, Plan B has been reported by the foreigner network to cost anywhere from 8,000 to 20,000 won-- far cheaper than in the States. So next time you're at the doctor's, make sure to ask for a prescription. You could be seriously thanking yourself later.

"Are abortions legal in Korea?"

In a word: no.

However, according to the Korean Law Blog, there are exceptions [emphasis mine]:

Chapter XXVII of the Criminal Code prohibits procuring and administering abortions. However, in 1973, the Maternal and Child Health and the Mother and Fatherless Child Health Acts established exemptions from this prohibition.

Even though the Korean legal system may punish those that procure and perform an abortion, prosecutors rarely prosecute those that perform or procure abortions because of the exceptions, the fact that doctors can fit their case into the exemptions, and the fact that the attitude of Koreans towards abortion has drastically changed since the imposition of the law.

Today, a woman that is pregnant in Korea that wishes to abort the fetus usually visits her local OB/GYN and the doctor usually performs the abortion or the doctor refers the patient to a clinic that will perform the abortion.

"Who do I call if I've been sexually assaulted?"

The crime rate in Korea is perceived to be extremely low by foreigners. Normal concerns—such as theft or street scams—are rare. However, it is unfortunate to note that out of the crimes in Korea, some of the most common are sex crimes.

If you find yourself in this situation, find a safe place and a phone and call the Women's Emergency Call number: 1366. Speak calmly and slowly as possible, and ask for English.

UPDATE: More information on sexual assault, sent from a fellow foreigner in Ulsan:

Emergency Contact Numbers

• 112 Police (call this first, possibly no English service)
• International Emergency Rescue 02-790-7561 (for English service)
• This is the place to go if the police don't understand or anything: Ulsan Women’s Crisis Center 052-244-3117 or 052-246-3117 (Located next to Dong-gang Hospital in Taehwa-dong or 울산 OneStop 지원센터).If the police aren't involved yet, this place will contact them (if you choose) and take you to the hospital for a check-up (which is conveniently located right next door.
• And for your blog audience all over Korea, here is a list of all the Crisis Centers in Korea.

Wishing you safety and health!

Questions welcome at playingwithelephants@gmail.com.

A little acceptance goes a long way.

This week has been very productive for the blog because I'm able to sit for hours at my desk.

Why, you ask? More deskwarming?

Perhaps you could call it that, but in truth my teachers are all incredibly busy with the end-of-the-school-year paperwork that they don't really have time for anything else. In all the hustle of the morning, something rather interesting happened:

Co-teacher [to me]: Laura, the Vice Principal just called the office. He wants to see you now.

Me: Should I go with a co-teacher?

Co-teacher: No, I asked him that but he said you can just go alone.

At this point I was on the border between dumbfounded and terrified because the Vice Principal speaks no more than 3 English phrases to me.

Now, before I continue, for those of you who aren't familiar with the Korean public school heirarchy, let me draw another quick analogy. If school were a game of chess, the Principal would be the King, but Vice Principal plays their role of Queen very well.

Oh, and all the teachers are pawns.

The point I'm trying to get across is this: in terms of power, the Principal definitely has the final say, but the Vice Principal does most of the footwork, and is basically in control of the teachers' daily working lives. So I was fairly intimidated that he wanted to see me without the protection of my co-teachers.

Walking to the main office, I repeated the word for 'Vice Principal' (교감선생님, or gyo-gam-seong-saeng-nim) about 1240985 times. When I got there, I found him in the middle of a meeting with a young woman so I waited skittishly outside the door (it was apparent to me at this point that I'm culturally becoming more Korean than I originally thought). When he told me to come in, I realized what was going on.

I sat down with this young woman who is applying for an open English teaching position at my school. The Vice Principal thought it would be a good idea to have me talk to her to test her English. It felt very strange to be the one asking interview questions (and especially to give the feedback to the Vice Principal in front of the interviewee!), but when all was said and done I left the office beaming.

Even if it was second nature to use my English, at least someone I normally bribe with cookies and immense bowing thought I would be just the girl for the job, and trusted my judgement for something other than making coffee.

How to trick your students into thinking you're fluent in Korean.

For those of you who take me seriously always (big mistake), I'm not sure I actually condone tricking your students into thinking you're fluent in Korean. It's good for your students to see someone they look up to learning a language; it's inspiring to them. And whether you realize it or not, learning a language while you're teaching a different language really helps your lesson planning. How better to know how to teach a skill than by simultaneously being a student for a paralleling skill?

However, one of the key advantages for being a foreigner learning Korean is that the little bits you do use in the classroom not only gain control, but awe your students into literally jaw-dropping wonderment.

I'll stop rambling and cut to the chase.

1. Sit down please. 앉으세요. (an-ju-seyo).

This is the more polite version, but if you really want to get to the point and/or some little stinker is causing you grief, 앉아 (an-ja) will do.

2. Speak louder please. 크게말해세요. (ku-gey mal hey-seyo).

Just 'louder' (크게 or ku-gey) will also do... the other great thing about using Korean with students is that you can be fairly informal because you are their superiors. If classroom Korean is all you desire to learn, these phrases are sure to be some of the easiest.

3. Correct! 맞아요! (ma-ja-yo!) or shortened for students can also be: 마자! (ma-ja!).


4. It's also good to have a working sense of numbers up to 35, as student numbers are often used to call on random kids (very effective if a class is virtually silent, or if you want to instill a healthy dose of fear into their little hearts). There are 2 number systems in the Korean language, but the one you will need to know for student numbers (ordinal numbers) can be found here, at Talk to Me in Korean (Level 1, Lesson 15).

5. While you're at it, here's some basic classroom vocabulary:

Student- 학생 (hak-seng)
Teacher 선생님 (seon-seng-nim)
Chalk- 분필(boon-pil)
Paper- You may be using 2 different words for paper in the classroom. 종이 (jong-ee) is literally 'paper.' However, (jang) 장 is the counter used to talk about paper in the context of, "A piece (장) of paper (종이)".*
Period- 마침표 (mah-chim-pyo)

Lastly, please don't be afraid to use this one:

6. I only speak a little Korean. 한글말조금해요. (hangul-mal-jo-gum-hey-oh). Because it's important to know how to express this sentiment when your students get excited that you have the magical power of 'Korean Speak' and they start barrelling you with questions in Korean.


*UPDATE: I would like to thank Marie Frenette for adding (and improving) some useful information to this post. You can find some other useful classroom Korean phrases in the comments section below.

Winter Camp is a lot like the zoo: it's full of monkeys.

In Korea, work is abundant, no matter your age. Even during vacation, when public schools are closed, students are sent to winter camps to practice English. It goes without saying, then, that winter camp season is almost essential to native English teachers like me. For me, this is a month-long experience in January a chance to work in smaller groups of students and use more creativity in my lessons.

For the students, it's a chance to go wild, put stickers all over my hands, and ask me questions until we're both blue in the face. But at least they're using English a good percent of the time the chaos is happening, so it all comes out in the wash.

At the beginning of the week, all of my students looked something like this:

So it was a little difficult to communicate.

But we took some time to get to know each other, and now we can have conversations between classes. Questions from my students at camp usually revolve around these topics:

1. Where does Laura Teacher live? (I never give a direct answer since I live so close to my school)
2. Does Laura Teacher have a boyfriend? (every student wants to know this from their foreign teachers)
3. Is Laura Teacher French? (surprisingly this one gets asked a lot)
4. What is Laura Teacher's phone number (this one is, for obvious reasons, also a secret)
5. What is my name? (students love to ask teachers this... I'm beginning to realize how bad I am with placing names to faces!)

The most popular one today was, "Laura Teacher, how old are you?" Due to my young age, I decided to keep this one under wraps as well, and now tell students I'm anywhere between 65 and 103. Today I chose age 78, and it sparked an interesting discussion:

Again, at least they're using English. Even if I'm a grandmother.

By the end of the week, I found some harmony when I decided to teach my students a Beatles song. Multimedia is an excellent way to engage students, and the song choice turned out to be perfect, even for low-level students.

All the same, I'm planning on bringing bananas next week for those monkeys. I don't want them to turn on me.

Lessons Learned from the Life of a Guest English Teacher.

A few people have asked to read the essay I wrote for a competition this year through EPIK. Here it is, in all its 2nd place glory (yes, yes; there's my charming sarcasm again).

On a more serious note, I am so thankful that my essay was chosen, and thrilled to see that I have so many people supporting my efforts abroad, including my school, who helped me to give my plain paper essay some finishing touches in the most Korean way possible (aka: completely without my consent but utterly appreciated!). 

Thanks for your kind words, positive vibes, and endless encouragement.

And for anyone who reads this in its entirety... you're rad.

Lessons Learned from the Life of a Guest English Teacher

I don’t think I can express just how different every foreigner’s experience is when they move to a new place. In fact, the one thing every foreigner likely does have in common when they think about their life in Korea is that it’s nothing like they imagined it would be. Talk about room for personal and professional growth! Here are some of my own stories from this transition to Korea so far, and the lessons I’ve gleaned from them:

Expect adventures in Korean dining.

I’ve had some interesting experiences just trying to eat in Korea. I love Korean food, but had to give up some of my own stubborn eating habits in order to truly enjoy it. When I first arrived in Korea, I was a vegetarian and wanted to maintain that dietary standard. However, after a few strange encounters with restaurant food, I decided a little meat in my diet wouldn’t be the worst thing after all. This first comedic incident occurred before I even left EPIK Orientation, and it‘s one I‘ll never forget:

Sitting with my friends in a Korean barbeque with virtually no knowledge of the Korean language, no readable menu, and my dietary needs... we defaulted to the other foreigners we saw in the restaurant, and enlisted their help. This resulted in one of the most awkward experiences I've had to date. Soon our fellow foreigners and the Korean servers were in what appeared to be a discussion over why someone would willingly come to a barbeque when they don't eat meat. If that wasn't enough, they all began pointing at me from across the restaurant so we could clear up this debacle. It was hard not to sink in my chair from this point on, especially when they came over and laughed when I verified that I really couldn‘t eat anything on the menu.

The lesson I would like to pass on from this night is that one should always come prepared to dine in a foreign country. The Korean culture is very hospitable and the women working that night definitely didn’t let me go hungry, but I certainly could have been more helpful if I was aware of some options to ask for in advance. Of course, there is always the possibility that the etiquette of a new culture will provide enough of a challenge. Here are some feelings from my first experience dining out with my school:

It’s my first staff meal and I feel completely lost. In the United States, I would be contributing to the conversation and making jokes. In Korea, I’m not even sure when I’m supposed to pour the water, which way to put my chopsticks, or even how to eat many of these dishes! These factors, in combination with the language barrier, make me about as comfortable as sitting on the floor does. Both I’m going to have to get used to. For the first time, I felt so socially out of place I thought I might begin to spill tears in the middle of lunch; not the impression I want to make on my new Principal and staff! Fortunately, one of my co-teachers told me not to worry. “We’re all very nice, don’t be nervous” she said. Those few words were enough for me to keep trying to cut fish with my chopsticks.

Although I still can’t cut fish properly with my chopsticks, I have learned how to act socially-presentable on a variety of other levels since moving to Korea. A few days after this lunch, I had a private meal with my co-teacher and took the time to ask her about proper eating manners in Korea. At first, I was a little embarrassed to ask her which way I should place my chopsticks between bites, but she seemed more than happy to help me adjust to Korean culture. Now that I see how eating together is an important part of social and professional life, I sometimes wish I had received a lesson on manners in Korean dining from the EPIK Orientation. It certainly would have helped to boost my confidence when taking those first few meals together as a school!

Learn some of the history.

Upon arriving at EPIK Orientation, it was made abundantly clear that learning some history of Korea would be necessary to our understanding of the culture. I gave each lecture my full attention but didn’t understand the magnitude of their importance until one night, heading home:

I’m in a taxi and the driver begins to speak to me in English. He seems very friendly and comments on how much he loves American baseball. We speak in broken English and Korean for a few minutes when he begins to share his extremely negative views toward Japan with me. I sit and listen, remembering the history lesson on Japan and South Korea I received at EPIK orientation.

Understanding history helps us to see the way culture is shaped. The two concepts are intertwined. One teacher at my school is very dedicated to my learning of Korean history and culture, and is kind enough to take me and other foreign teachers I know around our area to show us more about the country we live in now. The more I see and learn about Korea’s past, the more I can understand and find meaning in the present culture I live in. It is useful if I want to work professionally with other teachers, relate to my students, or hear a taxi driver’s story with an enlightened perspective.

Trust the system.

Sometimes, we are truly tested in another culture. One of the most obvious times in our lives when we depend on a system to work is when we are ill. Here’s a short account of the first time I was sick in Korea:

This past week, I've been feeling a bit low on energy and recently have begun to experience dizziness when I wake up. What made this situation even more interesting was that this was my first encounter with Korean medical practices. The nurse gave me some pills, all labeled in Hangul, and sent me off. No better time to start really trusting another culture than when you have to get medical attention!

I was really nervous to go to the doctor in Korea. In American culture, people generally have a bad habit of waiting until the illness becomes serious to go to a doctor. It wasn’t until one of my foreigner friends gave me some words of encouragement that I decided to put my health in the hands of the Korean medical system. “You need to trust the doctors here,” she said. Sure enough, all I had to do was let the medical system do its job (and let my co-teachers help me to and from the doctor), and I was healthy in no time! As with many cultural differences, sometimes it’s difficult to let go and try something a different way. However, it’s usually better to let go and let it happen. In this particular case, I couldn’t have put my health in better hands.

Honor your native culture.

I came to Korea with the humble perspective that this opportunity was going to be solely about Korean culture, but I was only half-correct. Although it’s true that on a daily basis, foreigners adapt to a new set of customs and habits, it doesn’t mean that their own culture isn’t of interest to Koreans! I learned this very quickly after starting my job. Being a foreigner in an elementary school sometimes feels akin to being a celebrity: everyone wants to know about your life! If I had thought about my teaching job with this perspective before moving to Korea, I would have brought more artifacts from America for the students to look at, which I now know to be a useful learning tool in the classroom. It would’ve been nice to see something like this on a packing list from EPIK, encouraging us to be just as ready to accept this new, Korean culture as we should be to share whatever we can from our native, English-speaking one. 

 

Remember with culture, it’s not better or worse. It’s just different.

As a foreigner, understand that there will be times when you feel ridiculous or out of place. The best way to counter this is with humility, not embarrassment. Culture is a far bigger and more powerful force than our own prides, so take every stumble as a learning opportunity and move along. Occasionally, you will feel completely lost. You may hear your name in conversation but not know what the conversation is about, and you may not know how to eat half the food you are served on any given day. To deal with these factors gracefully take on a sense of trust and adventure in the people you surround yourself with. If you can look at the big picture, it’s easier to trust this new system. Keep in mind that this won’t happen overnight. For a long period of time, you may not know things you once considered basic, such as where, or even if you can buy shoes in your size. There are things for every foreigner that makes them feel a little more at home. Recognize what those things are to you and figure out how to fulfill those needs. Even if it’s internet shopping.

As with any life experience, the outcome and lessons you gain from them is a choice. With new cultural experiences, this is no different. Every experience, good or otherwise, has the potential to enrich your life. All it takes is humility to realize that you’ll never know it all, but the courage to learn from whomever or whatever comes your way.

If you are considering teaching English in South Korea, make sure to check out EPIK's site: www.epik.go.kr . You will also find the winning entries from this year (including my essay) on EPIK's site soon!

Who's learning from who here?

One of the questions I receive the most from family, friends, and curious internet acquaintances (thanks for bonding me to the internet for life, Facebook) is how well my Korean is coming. The short answer is this: it's coming well. I am beginning to build confidence in my speaking skills, although admittedly I was shocked at how shy my usually-talkative mouth was to use Korean. Now that I'm putting myself out there, it's coming along alright. My main audience during an average day are:

1. taxi drivers.
2. random students on the street by my apartment.
3. the family of the noodle/kim bap house I love so much.
4. street vendors.

Every time I have a success with Korean locals, I walk away with a poker face of cool confidence, which bursts into the dorkiest grin imaginable as soon as I'm out of sight. Some of the highlights include:


1. the first time I directed a cabbie to my apartment.
2. the second time I directed a cabbie to my apartment (yeah, it was a pretty big deal).
3. the time I bartered with a shoe salesman for a sweet deal on some black boots in Busan.
4. the way the teachers and students at my school light up when I try to write their names in Hangul (imagine a poor foreigner sinking into her chair, scrawling on a piece of paper as several Koreans huddle around her yelling, "gim hae eun... eun! euuuuuuun!").
5. actually communicating with the 2-to-4-year-olds I cared for this weekend at children's house in Ulsan (this is going to be a different post entirely so keep an eye out).

So I'd place my language level at 3 years of age. That and taxi driver, which are about equivalent.

Much of this learning has been completed on my own time, but it hasn't been by myself. Aside from my co-teachers and foreign network, the biggest asset to my learning have been the kids I work with. They love taking time from their day to show me new words, test my knowledge of Hangul, or provide me with opportunities to listen to simple sentences being whined over and over... and over.

The best thing about learning from kids is that they never judge you for being wrong. They may laugh, but they never make you feel inferior for asking. They really have been some of my biggest supporters when it comes to learning, and certainly the biggest inspiration. So a big thank you to my students, and all the Korean children who lend a helping hand to tongue-tied foreigners like me.

On the other side of the spectrum is the image of an 'English speaker' I have to present to my students. As a foreign English teacher trying to learn Korean, it is sometimes difficult not to use a little here and there in the classroom just to make things run smoother. On a normal day at my school, this isn't much of an issue because the Korean teachers are already using their native language for much of the class. However, the reason English-speakers were hired to come here is to somehow be a tool for English immersion. I often laugh at this since I have about 1,000 students at my school and somehow must immerse them all in my language.

However, I do work an after-school program with limited numbers of students, so in those classes it is crucial that we have an 'English only' policy, for both me and the students. My classes are well-informed that if they speak Korean, they have to write lines. Although this is not my preferred method for a reward/punishment system, it is definitely effective in Korea. The only problem is that by the 5 o'clock hour (when after-school lessons begin), students do not want to keep to school rules, and they definitely don't want to be kept from speaking Korean.

So, what happens when you have an English teacher in a room of students who want to speak Korean?

 I think we're going to have a lesson on punctuation
sometime in the near future.

Yep. Punctuation.

This student's handwriting got suspiciously larger to cover more space.
Nice tactic.

I particularly like this kid's take on the punishment. Not only did he write 100 times in the smallest handwriting "I will speak English", but he wrote in blaring yellow marker... and still managed to save enough space to scrawl "THE END" at the bottom.

The age hierarchy in Korea would never allow me to say this aloud, but I think I learn just as much-- if not more-- from my students on a daily basis (and that's no knock to my teaching abilities!). Let's just chalk it up to say that what I learned in college still holds true: we all learn from one another.

Korean-itis.

So all the new strands of viruses here-- forevermore referred to on this blog as Korean-itis-- have been seriously crushing my social life, appetite and blogging habits. Last week, I was so sick that I couldn't even get out bed and take the 4.5 steps to my kitchen to pour a hot cup of tea. Fortunately I'm much better now and decided to fill everyone in on my past few weeks here:

"Is it suddenly winter here, or is that just me?"

One thing nobody ever told us newbie-foreigners is how fast the summer turns to complete winter weather. In the Pacific Northwest, there are 4 distinct season, and they all are dispersed somewhat equally throughout our 12 months (some may argue we have a 5th season called "rain" that likes to hang around always, but we just accept it). In Korea, the humid heat of summer turns to deathly cold winter fast enough to freeze the sweat on your forehead. At least that's how it felt when the 2 weeks of falltime ended and winter chill set in. It's another one of those things every Korean knows second-nature but foreigners like me have no clue about... and it's a really big deal, apparently. The day the weather turned, there was a special weather report about it. Normally, I watch international news to check the weather, so I completely missed this nationwide announcement. When I showed up to school in a short-sleeved sweater instead of the 2-layer winter coats my teachers were wearing, even my students asked me if I was okay. Everyone thought I was insane! Needless to say, the next day I came to school in a long sleeve shirt and have been wearing my coat in the classroom ever since, if for no other reason than just to blend a little.

Persimmons

In Washington State, I could go to the supermarket and buy a tiny, overpriced and freakishly pale persimmon. Not fun in the slightest. Here, persimmons are in season and, as I've quickly learned, are a really popular (and delicious) snack. Every day at school, teachers are slicing up chunks of persimmon to share. Although I haven't bought any for my apartment yet, I'm becoming pretty addicted. The other great thing about persimmons are the trees they grow on. During this time of year, all the leaves are turning color and falling to the ground, leaving persimmon fruits hanging like miniature pumpkins on the branches. It's beautiful and almost surreal.

 

"빼빼로!" Oh yes, it's Pepero Day.

Normally on November 11th, I'm honoring Vetran's Day in the States. Here, 11/11 is a special day for a different reason: a chocolate-covered, cookie/pretzel treat called Pepero is celebrated instead. These snacks are long and skinny, like 1's, so on 11/11 kids give each other boxes of Pepero until the sugar rush either induces vomiting or a coma. Now, aside from the fact that I found it really strange to celebrate a pseudo-Valentine's on a day I'd normally be thinking about those who served the US, it was difficult to teach with students all hyped up on sugar in class and munching on Pepero sticks during my lessons! Some girls had as many as 20 boxes stacked on their desks, all gifts from their friends (and crushes, I'm sure)! Well, at least with all the Pepero gifts I got from my students, I never have to food shop again.

Korean table

Many cities in Korea have free language classes for the foreign teachers, organized by the Metropolitan Office of Education (MOE). Ulsan, unfortunately, does not, and it breaks my heart a little because I really want to learn Korean faster and better than my self-teaching methods. Other foreigners who felt the same way decided to form a Korean study table, and we now meet once a week to talk about language, teaching, and whatever else comes up. It's been a great way to motivate myself to study during the week while making new friends. There are a lot of benefits to picking up Korean, far exceeding the obvious:

1. (First, the obvious): I can tell my cabbie how to get to my apartment without intense hand gestures or panic.
2. I can thoroughly enjoy the sounds of amazement from my co-teachers when I say something besides 'Hello' or 'Thank you'. Even one word and they fly into a tizzy of praise; it's like learning to speak at 2 years old only I'm fully aware of what's going on.
3. I can relate to my students better when trying to teach them the English language. It's not about speaking to them in Korean (which I almost never do in the classroom), but understanding the mindset of someone who is learning a new language. For example, I realize that my comprehension of the language is far greater than my speaking ability, which is something I definitely keep in mind when working with my students! They may not be able to tell me they understand, but many of them really do.

Anyway, with all the language learning I'm secretly hoping for some kind of breakthrough when everything suddenly makes sense, but realistically I'm just content with those little moments of clarity.

Gyeonju with Mr. Woo

Over the last few weekends I've traveled out of Ulsan a couple times as well. 3 weekends ago I took a day trip to Gyeonju, just 1 hour north of Ulsan. Gyeonju is a really popular international city in Korea and has a lot of historic and cultural sites. It also used to be the capitol of South Korea so it's large and really beautiful! We saw several tombs of past kings, an observatory, and the historical art in the Gyeonju Museum. Mr. Woo toured us around, and he is so full of knowledge so it really adds to the experience! After dinner, we took the road along the coast to get back to Ulsan, and we stopped at the beach. I stood at the edge of the sand and looked out East. It was weird to know I was staring in the direction of home, and the only thing separating me from everyone was thousands of miles of water. The Pacific Ocean looks familiar, even on the coast of Korea.

Girls' Weekend in Daegu

This weekend I took a trip up to Daegu, about 2 hours north, to meet up with my girlfriends from EPIK orientation. There are 4 of us (including Emily) who have stayed pretty close and have a really good time hanging out. We've been keeping in touch and visiting all of each other's cities on the weekends. Daegu is the 3rd largest city in Korea, so there was a lot I didn't see, but with the short time we spent there we really made it count. The other interesting thing about this city is that there are 2 military bases in the area, so there were a lot of foreign families walking around. In Ulsan I rarely see anything like this, so it really took me back when I saw an American family out to eat. The amusement park was our main objective for the day, so we took in the beautiful fall-esque weather (with the winter chill, of course), talked to Korean tween girls in line for rides, made our British friend try a churro for the first time, and screamed our heads off on some pretty crazy roller coasters. There is also an 80-story tower at the park, so we got to at least look at most of Daegu.

Well, that's all for now. If you'd like to see more pictures from my adventures, check out the 'Et cetra' tab of my blog to find links to my online photo albums.

Hope everyone is well in your corner of the world!
Much love from Laura.

impressions.

Now that I've been here almost 2 months and feel rather settled (well, as settled as you can be in the middle of Korea after 2 months), I thought it would be fun to share a few assessments I've made. This entry comes with a small disclaimer, because as you'll see, there are no direct quotes from co-teachers, students, or anyone else to support what I'm saying.

But this is my blog, so let's just roll with it. Just remember this is all from the mouth of a waygook (or 'foreigner', for all you Westerners).


What I think of the food.

I still love Korean food. In fact, most blog ideas pour from my brain after a long day at work as I sit in this one little kim bap shop across the street from my apartment. It's adorable, family-run I think, and has a huge menu with really inexpensive food. The owners know me and my favorites now, which I'm really happy about. Big breakthrough today: they offered me more soup for free. I think they like me.

Also, for those who have been curious about how my vegetarian status was holding up: I have made the decision to eat chicken meat on occasion, mostly for the sake of my school dinners and evenings out with foreigner friends. In my close group of friends, we had a seafood allergy, a lactose-free diet, and me playing the part of vegetarian. This ruled out basically any dining options... what a nightmare. So me eating chicken here and there has helped us all immensely. Besides, after the tripe incident, I figured it would be safer to know I was eating chicken than not know I was eating cow stomach.


What my co-teachers think of me.

Firstly, they recognize I'm very young and remind me on a daily basis. This has not stopped them from continuing to point out every available male teacher, despite their age.

They think that the students like me because I have blue eyes. Like I mesmerize them with my 'special' eyes. What I fail to tell them is that if I actually had this power, I may not have left the US to begin with.

My left-handedness is becoming a new topic of interest. Today at lunch, my Korean father actually looked a little concerned that I was left-handed. He asked me if I was actually right-handed like I use my left hand just for fun. Then everyone wanted to know how I became left-handed. When I said it was my choice (slash genetics, I pointed out), I got some strangely amused looks. The weird looks only got weirder when I got up the nerve to ask if anyone in Korea is left-handed. Guess not. Now, I already knew the left hand was 'bad' in Korea, but it is getting a little frustrating for people to tell me that I do things well "even though she uses her left hand."

Today, my Human Services self remembered an essay I wrote last fall for a class on Diversity and Social Justice. We wrote about our privileges and disadvantages in society. I talked about my left-handedness as a disAbility at the most mild level. Well, here in Korea, it's seen as more of a handicap than anywhere I've ever been. Once again, I'm so thankful for my major.

Okay, I can't help it; I worked so hard to get this degree. Here is a small excerpt from my essay:

I am proud to be left-handed, and the fact that I am a minority in this area makes me feel unique. Being left-handed does not make me feel like a minority, and society does not make me feel excluded outright for being left-handed (although historically, organized religion used to consider left-handed people ‘evil’). However, US culture is generally built for right-handed people. Scissors, desks, and many instructions for skills such as knitting create a divide between people who are right-dominated versus left-dominated. Sometimes, I am frustrated with people’s shock at my left-handed quality, or their assumptions that my handwriting is not as competent as a right-hander’s. These stereotypes are a concise analogy for the hierarchy between majorities and minorities in society; the minority is viewed as different (and therefore less functional) than the majority.

One last interesting comment I heard this week was about my "S line." I don't think they knew that I understood what they were saying, but I learned from my friend Angela (who basically paved the way for me in Korean culture) that the "S line" is a term used to describe an ideal body type in Korea. If you look at the shape of the S, perhaps you'll understand: something of a chest, small waist, and ample hips. Needless to say, it's not too difficult to have an "S line" when you're being compared to Korean body types, but it was pretty hilarious to hear it from my lady co-teachers.


What my students think of me.

All smiles.

Well, mostly.

Nah, they've been pretty good, actually. I'm getting to know several of them on more than a name-basis (and believe me, when they don't have an English name, the name-basis alone is pretty difficult!). Some kids come in for tutoring in the afternoon, so usually they are deferred to me. I really like it. It's natural and more personal. It's why I came here.

They think I'm silly. I sing in class, dance, and am probably a good mental health break from their insanely stressful lives. On the first day of my lessons, I did an introduction slideshow with pictures of my family. One of them had a picture of my mom and I making a funny face. Apparently this image really stuck in their heads because two girls came up to me this weekend and wanted to know how to make 'the face.'

This was it.
We had an English Festival this weekend (pictured above) and it felt good to work with my kids outside of class... we had fun, despite the fact that our booth was a Jenga Spell game and I still cringe when I think about the sound of those wooden blocks crashing (as you can see, it was a pretty crazy, loud booth!).

Again, my co-teachers claim that our booth was popular because of my eyes, not the bags of candy we were giving away.


What I think about learning Korean.

It's a slow process but I'm still working at it everyday. I feel like my comprehension is definitely getting better, but my speech is lacking. It's incredibly difficult to muster up the energy to learn a language when I'm already teaching a different one all day.

I'm self-teaching with the help of my co-teachers, students, www.talktomeinkorean.com, and cell phone Korean-to-English dictionary.

By the way, I tried to think about Spanish today, the other language I used to know moderately. I couldn't even get my mind around it. I really admire anyone who is multi-lingual.


What I think of Korea (everyone asks me this so I'm just going to answer it).

I absolutely love it here. I miss you all, sometimes a lot, but this is a great experience for me. If you would ever like to send mail or packages, I can definitely return the favor with something special from Korea.