Finding my Seoul.

For the last week, I've been touring about Seoul, the capitol of South Korea with my travel backpack, camera, and trustworthy friends in tow. This trip was jam-packed and still we could spend so much more time getting to know Seoul. However, from what we learned and saw, Seoul is a city to be loved and experienced.

Instead of going chronologically through the day-to-day experiences of this whirlwind week, I'll break this down into highlights and try to give those travelers out there a good idea of some places to definitely visit in Seoul as well.

Speeding through Korea at 200mph.
Coming from Ulsan, approximately 600 km away, the fastest and cheapest way to travel to Seoul is by the highspeed train. A flight rivals this mode of transport only slightly, but with all the time it takes for security checks, the 2.5 hours by train to Seoul just makes sense. The KTX bullet train travels at about 200 miles per hour, which didn't feel as crazy as I thought it would, but was fun nonetheless. We got out to the train early, as our tickets said it only stops for 2 minutes! The KTX is definitely a commuter train. As for the company I kept during the ride, it varied from a huffy old man to a woman monk to a woman I practiced some Korean with. Despite my fascination with the woman monk (all women monks have shaved heads), there wasn't much to say... so mostly the KTX was for sleeping (as with almost all Korean public transportation).
Traveler's note: if you have a considerably large or heavy bag with you, be ready to hoist it up into the overhead storage. Some friends of ours put their bags in the space between the cars but there is no official space for it to go besides above your seat.

Germ-a-phobes, bring some wipes.
The subway system in Seoul is fairly easy to get a grip on, and considering the massive size of this city, we used underground transport a lot! The subway system got us through Itaewan, the Hongik University District, Jongno, Dongdaemun-- and much more-- in a timely fashion. As a foreigner and group of young travelers, it's uncommon to get seats in the subway, as we are obligated to yield to elders (and avoid the sections reserved for people who need them, such as those with children). So grab your sea legs and hop aboard! You'll see more of Seoul by subway.
Traveler's tip: if you're traveling in Seoul for more than a day or two, especially if you're touring the city, consider getting a subway card instead of single journey tickets. It'll save you tons of time and the stress of fighting old men for the ticket kiosk!


This is how the Korean University kids get down.
The Hongdae district of Seoul is home to Hongik University, cute hole-in-the-wall boutiques, excellent DVD bangs (I recommend 'Take 5'), cafes (there's even a Hello Kitty cafe!), and bars with names like "Boobi Boobi" and "S Club". It was an incredibly lively place to be, and only blocks away from our accommodation, so we definitely felt like we were at the center of everything we wanted in terms of food and nightlife. After visiting several cities, I feel comfortable generalizing that the typical social cycle in Korea is almost homogeneous across the country: everyone eats and drinks in the evening, drinks more after that, mixes in some dancing and karaoke after that (followed by more drinks), and are still partying strong when the sun comes up. At sunrise, many consider going home (although many choose to keep drinking and singing), and by noon or so the shops begin to open. In Hongdae the social scene was even more exacerbated because of the college atmosphere, so although it was a tad annoying to only eat at Tom n Toms (a 24-hour coffee chain in Korea) for breakfast most mornings, it was hilarious to see young Korean girls stumbling home at 9am, still drunk, in their heels and night outfits. Excellent job, Korea. Excellent.

"Laura, I just touched the Korean man's feet." --Emily
This was my first experience at a hostel, and based on the less-than-desirable accommodations, I consider myself courageous to say it won't be my last. We chose our hostel based on the supreme location to the university and art district in Hongdae, and the price was practically unbeatable. However, there was definitely a trade-off we weren't aware of! When we arrived at our stay, the conditions of the hostel came as quite a shock. On several occasions, many of us (girls and guys) actually opted to use the bathroom and even brush our teeth at our morning breakfast stop as opposed to the bathroom at the hostel. There is so much more I could share about our accommodations but am choosing not to because I don't want to completely shame its owners on a public blog. Instead, a word of advice: please heed the travel tip.
Travel tip: Do NOT book at Backpacker Friends in Hongdae district in Seoul, unless you are sleeping off jet lag and do not plan on showering, brushing your teeth, or eating on site. Really. Just don't.


LotteWorld.
With all the snow coating Seoul, we were glad that LotteWorld was available for a day of indoor fun. LotteWorld holds the Guinness World Record for largest indoor amusement park, so we knew we'd still be in for a treat even though we weren't outside. LotteWorld is definitely an experience unlike any other I've had in my thrill-seeking days. Although we didn't go on many rides, it was interesting to see how one would build an amusement park inside. There were water flume rides, a monorail, hot air balloon rides (monorail hung from the ceiling), rollercoasters, and an indoor parade complete with dancers, floats, and fire. After lunch, we were lucky enough to catch the parade and watched from above as dancing bears (who look incredibly like Micky and Minnie Mouse... hmm...) waved to us from a moving barge. One interesting thing we noticed during the parade were the dancing genies. These ladies were more exposed than is commonly acceptable in traditional Korean culture, and eventually we realized that all these dancers were not Korean at all, in fact, but were foreigners. Now, I had two thoughts pop into my head the moment I realized this:

1) It's frustrating how the image or foreign women in Korea is over-sexualized. As a woman in Korea, I sometimes feel like Korean men think that I'm 'easy' because I'm from the United States. Only allowing foreign women to dance in those costumes is perpetuating this image. If Korean culture wants to add this element of culture to their society, they should be willing to represent it with their Korean women just as well as with women from other countries.


2) I wonder if I could take a year to dance as a genie in LotteWorld.....

Two completely conflicting thoughts, I know.


A country divided.
It's difficult for people to not think about conflict when they think about Korea. It is a country divided in two parts, with little hope of amends being made. From the news and my previous blog post about the recent tensions between North and South Korea, my friends and I were concerned that our trip to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) would be shortened, or even canceled. However, we lucked out and were able to have a full tour with the USO to one of the most militarized zones in the entire world (a little counter-intuitive then, to name it the DMZ, but maybe after this post you'll understand). Some notable points of the tour:

- Visiting the Joint Security Area (JSA), which is the actual border between North and South Korea. At the JSA there are many buildings used by the UN for conferences on international relations. These buildings sit directly on the borderline, so upon entering the latter half of the building, I technically crossed over into North Korea, albeit on UN territory.

-Signing the waiver, which stated that we would not make any gestures at the JSA toward any military personnel; we understand that our image could be used for propaganda against South Korea; and that we understood that we were entering a highly dangerous area where we could easily experience fatal injuries. The hardest part was making sure we didn't point at things.

- Entering the 3rd tunnel dug by North Korean soldiers, which was intended for invasion into South Korea. This was probably the weirdest part of the tour for me, because we went so deep into the earth. It was also made weirder when I thought about how there are likely other tunnels being made by North Korea into the South. There's nothing like experiencing history by climbing into a tunnel dug by communist soldiers.

By the end of the trip, we decided on a word for the DMZ: optimism. So many signs-- infrastructure that's beautiful but never been used, for example-- point to the hope that someday North and South Korea will once again be reunited. But when? And at what cost? I'm still learning a lot about Korea but sadly, I'm pretty sure this is one dream that is not going to be attained in the peaceful manner South Korea is painting in their version of propaganda for peace.
Travel tip: if you want to visit the DMZ, go with the USO. It's the only way to ensure you see everything you'd want while remaining safe and informed by the military. And those guys were hunks, so if for no other reason go for that.


"You haven't tried street food yet?!"
Seoul is known for its underground markets, especially near the Han River (take the Yongsan station exit on the subway and you'll be in the right area). I'm a firm believer that night markets are the best place to get to know Asian culture, and absolutely love taking in the sights and smells (even the nauseating ones) as I walk through the musty, damp market streets. As we passed fish, produce, and various ajumma textiles, we came across some street food stalls. I've been waiting patiently for the courage inside me to finally shout out, "try that street food!" and it only took a narrow-mouthed lady cooking potato pancakes to summon the nerve. We sat down, ate, and in the morning I wasn't sorry. Goodbye, stigma against street food. It's going to be a whole new journey through Asia now.

Profiting 2,000 won from a snowman.
The first night in Seoul, snow began to fall. When we woke to inches of white the next morning, I wasn't sure whether to be overjoyed or mortified. The weather in Seoul is unbearable at best, but at least snow meant a little break from the dry air, even if the ice and slush felt like being locked in a freezer. Many people decided to make little snowmen, which we found in several areas of the city for days to come. However, the most magical of all the snowmen was a huge ol' buddy sitting right outside the buildings next to our hostel. He stood taller than all us girls and even had a hat and mustache (quite the charmer, obviously). So happily, he wasn't going to melt anytime soon. Later that night, some passerbies had gotten to him and stuck chopsticks in his eyes. Horrified, I walked over to extract the utensils from our friend when lo and behold-- 1,000 won bills were stuck to each eye! I shamelessly took the profits as payment for relieving Mr. Snowman of his pain. 

The Secret Garden of Korea.
One of the more excitable friends in our traveling group suggested we get our butts out of bed one day and visit the Chandeok Palace in the Jongno district. Although there are many palaces and temples in Seoul, this one is special because it has a secret garden in it that can only be accessed through a tour. This palace was built during the 15th century and was full of beauty, history, and snow the day we visited. I always like to look at how Confucianism shaped the history and culture of Korea; this was apparent in the servants' quarters, where the two separate entrances for men and women are of differing heights. Care to guess whose entrance was higher? With all the lightning-fast economic and educational advances in Korea over the last 50-100 years, maybe the next few decades can bring some stronger sense of gender equality.

In any case, the garden was beautiful, and well worth the trek through snow and frigid air.


City of blinding lights.
After freezing ourselves to the bone in the secret garden, we decided that Seoul Tower, 777 feet (236.7 m) in the air, would be the next logical stop. This structure reminded me slightly of the Space Needle in Seattle, with its shape holding people at the top in 360 degree observatory fashion. From up above, it was rewarding to see Seoul from the bird's eye view, as opposed to the underground perspective I'd been used to for the last several days! As we looked at the layout of the city, my friend pointed out that there are not very many high-rise buildings in Seoul, which makes for a really pleasant atmosphere. It's true; for as big as the capitol is, there is a pretty flat skyline.
Traveler's/ photographer's tip: if you want to get some amazing shots of Seoul from the tower, make sure you bring something to wipe the observatory windows with. There is no outdoor platform, so you'll have to work with what you're given; decent shots are still totally possible though, so no worries.

New Year's Eve.
I spent the last night of 2010 celebrating my sisterfriend's 23rd birthday in the company of good friends, drinking sangria at a bar in Hongdae called Marsh Mellow, and workin' it on the dance floor of a popular club chain in Korea called Cocoon. It was a good night filled with laughter, smiles, and all the proper New Year's Eve magic I would've had in the States. This truly seems to be the one holiday everyone around the world celebrates, in some way or another. Experiencing Korea's version... well, it was definitely a memory for the books.

Good eats.
Seoul was hit-and-miss with food, and we only tried a Korean meal now and again (with little success), so if you're looking for fantastic food, look a little harder than we did, or ask some locals for their suggestions. However, we did find some success with these places:

405 Kitchen
This was, by far, my favorite place to dine in Seoul. A truly charming restaurant located in Hongdae around the corner from Joe's Sandwich, serving a breakfast to dinner menu daily, plus wine. It's not the cheapest meal you'll find, but it's not insanely expensive either. Vegetarian and bread-lover friendly. 405 Kitchen opens everyday at 11am.

Mr. Kebab
Cheap and delicious kebabs at a small red stand in the middle of Hongdae madness (it's near a bar called Best Friend). Mr. Kebab's hours are a bit of a mystery to us, even after a week, so if you find this stand open for business, you are a lucky duck and should swing in for a bite.

Gecko's
Located in Itaewan, Gecko's is an amazing little piece of the States just waiting for you. Sandwiches, salads, fish and chips all await. If you're the type to prefer mulled wine, it's here. Or how about a Washington Apple shot? You'll find it at Gecko's.

Finding my own little piece of Seoul was no easy task, but the fun was all in the adventure.

Until next time,
Laura in Korea

PS: Due to the irrational size of this post, not all the photos I would like to show are on this page. Follow this link to see the rest of my pictures from Seoul, or visit the 'Snaps' page to see more photo albums from Korean adventuring.

My Korean Kristmas.

Hopefully the title of this post didn't offend anyone who celebrates Christmas, but things here aren't quite the same as back at home. A few people have asked me about what Christmas is like in South Korea (because, yes, they do have Christmas here, with lights and trees and presents), but it's difficult to explain the subtle differences. As I've said before, no culture is better or worse, so this comparison is just for laughs and might put a new spin on how you choose to celebrate the season. Now, enough of the disclaimers. Let's compare.

Christmas light in the US:



Ah, nothing says "it's Christmas" like 5,000 colored bulbs timed to music.

Christmas lights in Korea:



... well, screw the colored lights. Nothing says "it's Christmas" like seasonally manicured nails.


Christmas carols in the US:



Another cultural fad, flash mobs, rock the Christmas season anywhere the people are (near fast food and shopping centers).



Christmas carols in Korea:



A whole different kind of fad hits Korea during Christmas, and her name is Mariah Carey.

Christmas zoos in the US:

In America, we like to make our lights do all the work at the zoo (AGAIN with the colored lights?!).



Christmas zoos in Korea:



In Korea, the animals prefer to get into the holiday spirit (or do they?...).


So, as you can see, Christmas is here, but it just isn't the same.

Friends and family, thank you for all the love and support from afar as I spend my first Christmas on my own. It's been beautiful and a little bittersweet, but knowing you are all still there and think of me makes everything about this season whole.

Followers of my blog whom I have yet to meet, thank you for taking the time to read about my adventures. I would like to extend the warmest wishes to you and your loved ones this season, whoever they may be and however you may celebrate.

Lastly, Korea-- thank you for giving me this wonderful opportunity to grow and find home wherever I am. It's not always easy but it's always a learning opportunity.

This will be my last post of the year, as I'm going on vacation immediately following Christmas for a weeklong trip to Seoul. Wish me luck as my friends and I troll up to the border, and expect an amazing Seoul post upon my return! See you in 2011!

Love and happiness to you all,
Laura (로라)

This would otherwise be on a Post-it somewhere.

"You're really independent, aren't you? When I first met you I thought you were just very girlish but now I learned more about you. You are a strong woman."

-미정 (Kelly)

Even with a language barrier, sometimes people can say exactly what your heart needs to hear. And sometimes they prove that they know you better than you expect.

"Are there 'Free Hugs' in Korea?"

For months, I've been saying the thing I miss most as a foreigner in Korea are hugs. In Korean culture, they just aren't that common, even among friends. As a Pacific Northwestern-er in my fantastically lovable college town, Bellingham, people with 'Free Hugs' signs were incredibly commonplace (so commonplace, in fact, that a lot of people began to ignore them). Well, since being in Korea, I can honestly say I've been in a constant state of hug withdrawals.

But last night, we saw something pretty incredible.

Two high school girls stood in the main strip of Song-nam Dong (Old Downtown) with 'Free Hugs' signs. At first, my gut reaction was to keep walking... until I realized we were in KOREA and these girls are AMAZING and I really need more hugs in my life.

It was hands-down the best hug I've had in weeks.

If anyone is wondering why I decided to post about this, it's because I want you to know that not every culture is going to express love the way you expect. And sometimes those little personal interactions really matter; when they aren't there they are missed, more than anything else.

I also encourage you to hug the next person you see who's gutsy enough to hold up a sign that says 'Free Hugs'. You're not too cool for it; everyone needs a little more love in their life.

Because I was too dumbfounded and found the moment too special and fleeting, there is no photo for today's blog. Instead, I thought I'd share this video, sent to me by someone awesome in the NW when I explained, months ago, just how much I was missing those hugs. He said I should look for someone like this:



 안아 (that's hugs) from South Korea,
Laura

Lessons Learned from the Life of a Guest English Teacher.

A few people have asked to read the essay I wrote for a competition this year through EPIK. Here it is, in all its 2nd place glory (yes, yes; there's my charming sarcasm again).

On a more serious note, I am so thankful that my essay was chosen, and thrilled to see that I have so many people supporting my efforts abroad, including my school, who helped me to give my plain paper essay some finishing touches in the most Korean way possible (aka: completely without my consent but utterly appreciated!). 

Thanks for your kind words, positive vibes, and endless encouragement.

And for anyone who reads this in its entirety... you're rad.

Lessons Learned from the Life of a Guest English Teacher

I don’t think I can express just how different every foreigner’s experience is when they move to a new place. In fact, the one thing every foreigner likely does have in common when they think about their life in Korea is that it’s nothing like they imagined it would be. Talk about room for personal and professional growth! Here are some of my own stories from this transition to Korea so far, and the lessons I’ve gleaned from them:

Expect adventures in Korean dining.

I’ve had some interesting experiences just trying to eat in Korea. I love Korean food, but had to give up some of my own stubborn eating habits in order to truly enjoy it. When I first arrived in Korea, I was a vegetarian and wanted to maintain that dietary standard. However, after a few strange encounters with restaurant food, I decided a little meat in my diet wouldn’t be the worst thing after all. This first comedic incident occurred before I even left EPIK Orientation, and it‘s one I‘ll never forget:

Sitting with my friends in a Korean barbeque with virtually no knowledge of the Korean language, no readable menu, and my dietary needs... we defaulted to the other foreigners we saw in the restaurant, and enlisted their help. This resulted in one of the most awkward experiences I've had to date. Soon our fellow foreigners and the Korean servers were in what appeared to be a discussion over why someone would willingly come to a barbeque when they don't eat meat. If that wasn't enough, they all began pointing at me from across the restaurant so we could clear up this debacle. It was hard not to sink in my chair from this point on, especially when they came over and laughed when I verified that I really couldn‘t eat anything on the menu.

The lesson I would like to pass on from this night is that one should always come prepared to dine in a foreign country. The Korean culture is very hospitable and the women working that night definitely didn’t let me go hungry, but I certainly could have been more helpful if I was aware of some options to ask for in advance. Of course, there is always the possibility that the etiquette of a new culture will provide enough of a challenge. Here are some feelings from my first experience dining out with my school:

It’s my first staff meal and I feel completely lost. In the United States, I would be contributing to the conversation and making jokes. In Korea, I’m not even sure when I’m supposed to pour the water, which way to put my chopsticks, or even how to eat many of these dishes! These factors, in combination with the language barrier, make me about as comfortable as sitting on the floor does. Both I’m going to have to get used to. For the first time, I felt so socially out of place I thought I might begin to spill tears in the middle of lunch; not the impression I want to make on my new Principal and staff! Fortunately, one of my co-teachers told me not to worry. “We’re all very nice, don’t be nervous” she said. Those few words were enough for me to keep trying to cut fish with my chopsticks.

Although I still can’t cut fish properly with my chopsticks, I have learned how to act socially-presentable on a variety of other levels since moving to Korea. A few days after this lunch, I had a private meal with my co-teacher and took the time to ask her about proper eating manners in Korea. At first, I was a little embarrassed to ask her which way I should place my chopsticks between bites, but she seemed more than happy to help me adjust to Korean culture. Now that I see how eating together is an important part of social and professional life, I sometimes wish I had received a lesson on manners in Korean dining from the EPIK Orientation. It certainly would have helped to boost my confidence when taking those first few meals together as a school!

Learn some of the history.

Upon arriving at EPIK Orientation, it was made abundantly clear that learning some history of Korea would be necessary to our understanding of the culture. I gave each lecture my full attention but didn’t understand the magnitude of their importance until one night, heading home:

I’m in a taxi and the driver begins to speak to me in English. He seems very friendly and comments on how much he loves American baseball. We speak in broken English and Korean for a few minutes when he begins to share his extremely negative views toward Japan with me. I sit and listen, remembering the history lesson on Japan and South Korea I received at EPIK orientation.

Understanding history helps us to see the way culture is shaped. The two concepts are intertwined. One teacher at my school is very dedicated to my learning of Korean history and culture, and is kind enough to take me and other foreign teachers I know around our area to show us more about the country we live in now. The more I see and learn about Korea’s past, the more I can understand and find meaning in the present culture I live in. It is useful if I want to work professionally with other teachers, relate to my students, or hear a taxi driver’s story with an enlightened perspective.

Trust the system.

Sometimes, we are truly tested in another culture. One of the most obvious times in our lives when we depend on a system to work is when we are ill. Here’s a short account of the first time I was sick in Korea:

This past week, I've been feeling a bit low on energy and recently have begun to experience dizziness when I wake up. What made this situation even more interesting was that this was my first encounter with Korean medical practices. The nurse gave me some pills, all labeled in Hangul, and sent me off. No better time to start really trusting another culture than when you have to get medical attention!

I was really nervous to go to the doctor in Korea. In American culture, people generally have a bad habit of waiting until the illness becomes serious to go to a doctor. It wasn’t until one of my foreigner friends gave me some words of encouragement that I decided to put my health in the hands of the Korean medical system. “You need to trust the doctors here,” she said. Sure enough, all I had to do was let the medical system do its job (and let my co-teachers help me to and from the doctor), and I was healthy in no time! As with many cultural differences, sometimes it’s difficult to let go and try something a different way. However, it’s usually better to let go and let it happen. In this particular case, I couldn’t have put my health in better hands.

Honor your native culture.

I came to Korea with the humble perspective that this opportunity was going to be solely about Korean culture, but I was only half-correct. Although it’s true that on a daily basis, foreigners adapt to a new set of customs and habits, it doesn’t mean that their own culture isn’t of interest to Koreans! I learned this very quickly after starting my job. Being a foreigner in an elementary school sometimes feels akin to being a celebrity: everyone wants to know about your life! If I had thought about my teaching job with this perspective before moving to Korea, I would have brought more artifacts from America for the students to look at, which I now know to be a useful learning tool in the classroom. It would’ve been nice to see something like this on a packing list from EPIK, encouraging us to be just as ready to accept this new, Korean culture as we should be to share whatever we can from our native, English-speaking one. 

 

Remember with culture, it’s not better or worse. It’s just different.

As a foreigner, understand that there will be times when you feel ridiculous or out of place. The best way to counter this is with humility, not embarrassment. Culture is a far bigger and more powerful force than our own prides, so take every stumble as a learning opportunity and move along. Occasionally, you will feel completely lost. You may hear your name in conversation but not know what the conversation is about, and you may not know how to eat half the food you are served on any given day. To deal with these factors gracefully take on a sense of trust and adventure in the people you surround yourself with. If you can look at the big picture, it’s easier to trust this new system. Keep in mind that this won’t happen overnight. For a long period of time, you may not know things you once considered basic, such as where, or even if you can buy shoes in your size. There are things for every foreigner that makes them feel a little more at home. Recognize what those things are to you and figure out how to fulfill those needs. Even if it’s internet shopping.

As with any life experience, the outcome and lessons you gain from them is a choice. With new cultural experiences, this is no different. Every experience, good or otherwise, has the potential to enrich your life. All it takes is humility to realize that you’ll never know it all, but the courage to learn from whomever or whatever comes your way.

If you are considering teaching English in South Korea, make sure to check out EPIK's site: www.epik.go.kr . You will also find the winning entries from this year (including my essay) on EPIK's site soon!

A haiku in honor of my afternoon snack, ii.

Are you milk or not?

Bubbly, fizzy Milkis drink.

Something tells me 'no'.

Thank you to my brother for bringing this Korean beverage to my attention, and my language study group for telling me I can find them at virtually every convenience store.

Oh, and keeping to the theme of the banana milk obsession here, Milkis also comes in banana flavor.

A haiku in honor of my afternoon snack, i.

Little ginseng bite.

Sweet and healthy; I'm confused.

You're a... vitamin?

Okay, okay-- so it's a vitamin candy. But still. I think the big companies in the States should take a hint and start making sweets from things that can actually help our bodies.